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How
Brake Valves Work?
Brake valving represents the least
understood area of the conventional brake
system.
There are
several reasons for this:
• They are thought to be
"bulletproof" and last forever
• You need special tools to check
them
• They won't affect normal brake
operation
• Most training does not cover them
in any detail.
For these reasons and others, most
technicians do not take the time to understand what role each of these
valves plays in the operation of the brake system. Not having an
understanding of this prevents the technician from knowing when to add
these valves to the list of possible causes when diagnosing a specific
brake problem. These valves can and do fail depending on the valve's
design and location on the vehicle.
There are three main types of brake
valves in use on today's brake systems: metering
valves, proportioning
valves and pressure difference switches. Although not actually
a valve, the pressure differential switch is usually grouped together
with brake valves when discussing brake system operation. Before we
proceed, we have to get some terminology straight. The valve pictured
in Figure 1 is not a proportioning valve.

The entire valve assembly is called a combination
valve. Modern vehicles house more than one valve in a common
housing to save on production costs.
Proportioning
Valve
See
Main Article Proportioning Valve
The proportioning valve is
designed to prevent rear wheel lockup during panic braking. It is
needed for two main reasons - most vehicles use drum
brakes in the rear and all vehicles experience weight
transfer during a panic stop. Rear drum brakes are hydraulic
over mechanical in design. If too much pressure is supplied to the
wheel cylinders, lockup will occur. All vehicles, those with both rear
drum and rear disc brakes, will experience weight transfer during a
panic stop. When weight is taken off the rear wheels during a panic
stop the tendency for the rear brakes to lockup will increase. The
proportioning valve is designed to limit the pressure to the rear
brakes during a panic braking situation.
The most important point to understand
about proportioning valves is when they work - only during panic braking.
This means that a vehicle could potentially go its whole life without
ever using its proportioning valve. Think about the little old lady
that drives to and from church and the grocery store. It is possible
that she will never have the need to make a panic stop and therefore
never activate her proportioning valve. The other half of that
equation is all those who drive near her will probably get a chance to
see if their proportioning valves work!
Hydraulic
Proportioning Valves
Most vehicles incorporate a proportioning
valve that uses the pressure in the brake system to know when
a panic braking situation is taking place. A typical proportioning
valve is pictured in Figure 2 on. The main components of the valve
include the piston, spring, fluid restrictor and valve housing. During
normal braking the fluid flow is
unrestricted through the proportioning valve, as in Figure 3.
This is where the proportioning valve
spends most of its life. The spring prevents the piston
from moving until a certain pressure is reached. This pressure is
known as the knee point. When the vehicle experiences a panic braking
situation the system pressure will increase dramatically. When the
pressure reaches the knee point it is strong enough to compress the spring.
As the piston moves, its opening presses against the fluid restrictor,
as shown in Figure 4. This starts to limit the pressure to the
rear brakes.

If the panic braking situation
continues and system pressure increases past the knee point the piston
will be pushed tightly against the fluid restrictor which shuts off
any more pressure from reaching the rear brakes (see Figure 5).
The knee point and maximum pressure allowed to the rear brakes vary
with each vehicle and the numbers shown in the previous figures are
for reference only. When the brakes are released, the spring pushes
the piston back to its rest position, which opens the fluid passage to
the rear brakes. There are other designs of hydraulic proportioning
valves. They operate different internally, but accomplish the same
outcome - prevent rear lockup during panic braking. Also realize RWD
vehicles use one proportioning valve while FWD
vehicles use two. On a FWD, each rear brake is on a separate
circuit so two valves are needed.
Hydraulic-activated proportioning
valves have some disadvantages. Since their only input is the system
pressure, they have no way of knowing if the vehicle's load changes.
Ideally, if the rear of the vehicle is loaded, the rear brakes should
be allowed to do more of the work. The other disadvantage of older
hydraulic-activated proportioning valves relates to when there is a
front hydraulic failure. If there is no front pressure, the rear
brakes must do all of the stopping and excessive pedal pressure will
be needed. Guess what the proportioning valve "thinks" is
happening? You got it - panic braking. It will do the job it is
supposed to, which is to limit the rear brake pressure at a time when
you really need it.
Diagnosing Hydraulic
Proportioning Valves
Whether or not you take the
additional steps to inspect or diagnose a vehicle's hydraulic
proportioning valve will depend on the following:
Could the customer's compliant involve
the proportioning valve?; What is
the condition and location of the combination valve?; and What
type of proportioning valve does the vehicle have?
he proportioning valve will only be
added to our list of possible causes if the customer's complaint
involves rear-wheel lockup under panic braking. We must ask the
customer when the rear wheel lockup is occurring - light to normal or
heavy to panic braking? If the answer is panic braking, the valve is
on our list, but it won't be the only thing on our list (see April's
article on rear-wheel lockup for more information). The valve's design
will determine how and when we are going to diagnose it.
The design of some proportioning
valves allows two things - more chance for failure and an easy
way to diagnose them. If we take a look at the proportioning valve in Figure
6 we will see the cap screw that holds the piston
and spring in place is vented.

In the vent hole is a small rubber
"mushroom" that is supposed to prevent any moisture from
entering the cap screw. If this style of valve is mounted low on the
vehicle, as in most rear-wheel-drive vehicles, it can be exposed to a
high degree of moisture. This is especially true where road salts are
used for snow and ice removal. The moisture can corrode the cap screw
and allow water to enter into the area where the piston
travels in the cap screw (see Figure 7).

This causes the inside of the cap
screw to corrode which bonds the piston and cap screw together (see Figure
8.). Normally when the cap screw is removed, the cap screw, spring
and piston are separate pieces. This corrosion prevents the piston
from moving when a panic braking situation occurs.
The same thing that allows the valve
to fail is what will allow us to check it - the cap screw vent hole.
First determine if the valve is a good candidate by its external
appearance. If the outside of the valve and especially the cap screw
are corroded then it is a good candidate.
Remove the rubber mushroom from the
cap screw. Next insert a paperclip so that it bottoms out in the
piston as in Figure 9.

Have an assistant start the vehicle
and apply heavy pedal pressure to simulate a panic braking situation.
The paperclip should push against you and travel about 1/32" to
1/16" as the piston moves. If the paperclip doesn't move the
piston is seized in the cap screw and the valve
will have to be replaced. This test will work on any proportioning
valve that is vented through the cap screw and should be part of your
normal inspection if the valve's exterior condition merits it.
Most proportioning valves are not
vented through the cap screw. There is not a quick check for these
types of valves. These valves should only be checked if the customer's
complaint indicates a possible proportioning valve problem. Most shops
do not have pressure gauges so the process used to diagnose the
problem will have to be a process of elimination. All other possible
causes will have to be checked before the proportioning valve is
condemned.
Pressure gauges are the best way to
diagnose a failed proportioning valve. A gauge is installed into the
front and rear hydraulic circuits.
The vehicle is started and the brake
pedal is applied with heavy pedal pressure to duplicate a panic
braking situation. The front and rear pressures should be different.
Most manufacturers do not publish these pressures. The rear brakes
usually are "shut" down between 500 and 800 psi while the
fronts can climb to well over 1,200 psi. What you are looking for is
whether the rear pressure has been limited. If the pressures are equal
then the valve is not working and will have to be replaced to correct
the problem.
Mechanical
Proportioning Valves
Some vehicles use
ride height to sense what should be done with the rear brakes. If a
vehicle is in a panic brake situation, weight is transferred to the
front and rear ride height changes. Likewise, if the rear of the
vehicle is loaded then the rear ride height changes. Engineers came up
with "smart" proportioning valves that use ride height to
determine what to do with the rear brake pressure. These valves have
several different names depending on who is talking about them. They
can be referred to as "load sensing proportioning
valves," "height sensitive control valves"
or "smart proportioning valves." Instead of using hydraulic
pressure they use a mechanical linkage to the vehicle's rear
suspension as shown in Figure 10.

There are many different variations of
this type of valve, but all do the same job.
There are three main positions for
these types of valves. The position it spends most of its life is
where the vehicle is operating at normal ride height and performing
routine stops (see Figure 11). In this position the rear brakes
are allowed to do their fair share of the vehicle's
braking.
The next most common position for the
valve is when the vehicle is carrying a load. When the vehicle is
loaded the valve is opened further (Figure 12) to allow the
rear brakes to do more braking. This is one area that sets it apart
from its hydraulic counterpart.

The third possible position occurs
during panic braking. If a panic braking situation occurs then weight
transfer takes place and rear ride height increases (see Figure
13). When this takes place, the linkage to the valve restricts
pressure to the rear brakes to prevent rear-wheel lockup.
One of the most important points to
understand about these valves is
because they rely on ride height to work, their adjustment will need
to be checked periodically. As a vehicle ages, its ride height can
change. This will affect the smart valve's operation.
If the vehicle's ride height is lower
than it should be and the valve's adjustment is not changed to
compensate for this it will allow the rear brakes to work longer than
they are supposed to. The valve "thinks" the vehicle is in a
constant loaded condition.
Another related point is that nothing
can be done to alter ride height without affecting the valve's
operation. The addition of helper springs,
air bags or even high pressure gas shocks can be enough to change the
valve's operation. Anything that increases rear ride height will cause
the valve to "think" a panic braking situation is taking
place. It will restrict fluid pressure to the rear brakes and cause
the fronts to do more work. The addition of these items can also
change how soon weight transfer takes place.
There are many vehicles equipped with
some variation of smart valve. Plymouth and Dodge Mini-vans, Taurus
and Sable sedans, Volkswagen and Audis, Wind star vans, Toyota Pickup
and 4-Runner, and many of the 1/2- and 1-ton domestic pickups all have
load sensing proportioning valves of some sort. Keep in mind that all
FWD vehicles use a valve that actually houses two valves, not one.
These vehicles are diagonally split and need one valve for each rear
wheel.
Adjusting &
Diagnosing Mechanical Proportioning Valves
The adjustment of these valves
should be checked periodically. This is especially true if anything is
done to alter the vehicle's ride height. The steps involved in
adjusting these valves vary greatly from one manufacturer to another.
Generally the domestic procedures are fairly simple when compared to
either the European or Japanese. Domestic adjustment procedures
usually do not involve the use of pressure gauges, while both the
European and Japanese require them. It is not possible to cover these
procedures in this article, so when valve adjustment is necessary
consult the appropriate service manual.
Diagnosing the operation of these
valves holds similar challenges. Depending on the type of hydraulic
system valve failure can come in different forms. If the vehicle has a
front to rear split system (RWD) then the valve can fail in two
typical ways - open or closed. If the valve fails open or stays open
too long it will cause rear brake problems. If the valve fails closed
or stays closed too long it will cause front brake problems. On the
other hand, if the vehicle is a FWD with a diagonal split hydraulic
system then the possible combinations increase. Since there are two
valves, it results in eight possible failure combinations.
The best method to check valve
function is by using a set of pressure gauges. If pressure gauges are
not available, a primitive check can be made. If you understand how
these valves work then you can perform a basic function check by
checking fluid flow at different ride heights. The steps required for
a RWD are slightly different than those for a FWD. The reason is the
FWD valve has two valves so each rear wheel must be checked
separately. To check a FWD vehicle, start with the tires on the
ground, open the right rear bleeder and have an assistant slowly push
the brake pedal half of the way down. Note the size and strength of
the fluid flow. Close the bleeder and do the same with the left rear.
Make sure your assistant is consistent with the pedal force. The size
and strength of the streams should be close to equal. With the tires
on the ground the valve should be open and fluid flow should be
uninterrupted. If one of the streams is considerably less than the
other chances are the valve is stuck closed. Next raise the vehicle by
the frame and let the rear wheels hang. This simulates a panic braking
situation and should restrict the valves. Repeat the previous steps
and note whether there is a difference from side to side and from when
the tires were on the ground. Theoretically, the streams should be
reduced with the wheels hanging if the valves are working. If both
sides are doing the same thing, both open when they should be closed
or both closed when they should be open, try adjusting the valve
first. If adjusting the valve doesn't correct the problem then
replacement is in order. If there is a side-to-side difference, it is
internal and the valve should be replaced.
Metering
Valve
See Main
Article Metering Valve
The metering valve is a balance or
timing valve. It is used on most RWD vehicles that have disc brakes on
the front and drum brakes on the rear. Disc and drum brakes apply at
different times. Disc brakes will apply immediately while drum brakes
take a while to apply. The reason for this is the return springs in
the drum brakes prevent the drum brakes from working until a certain
pressure is reached.
Disc brakes have no return springs so
they apply instantly. The metering valve's job is to "hold"
the front brakes off until the rear brakes start to apply. For this
reason it is also known as a "hold off" valve. If no
metering valve were used the vehicle would nose dive and premature
wear could occur in the front brakes.
The metering valve consists of the
following main components - stem, diaphragm, spring, seal and retainer
and low pressure valve (Figure 14).


Metering valve operation takes place
in three stages. When the brakes are first applied the low pressure
valve closes off the passage to the front brakes (see Figure 15).
Once the pressure in the system is high enough to overcome the return
springs in the rear drum brakes it also is high enough to just open
the metering valve (see Figure 16). This is known as the blend
pressure. Once the metering valve starts to open and pressure is
allowed against the diaphragm, the difference in pressure on each side
of the diaphragm causes the valve to fully open (see Figure 17).
At this point both the disc and drum brakes will apply at the same
time and balanced braking will be achieved. Unlike the proportioning
valve, the metering valve works every time the brake is applied.
The majority of RWD vehicles use
metering valves. They are usually part of the combination valve. FWD
vehicles do not use metering valves. A FWD vehicle does about 80
percent of its braking with the front axle. There is no need to
"hold" them off.
Diagnosing Metering
Valves
The diagnosis of a metering valve is
quite simple. All metering valves use a stem. Depending on the design
of the valve, the stem will either protrude through or be underneath a
rubber dust cap. To check the operation of the metering valve simply
observe the stem during the brake apply and release cycle. It should
move out when the brake is applied and return to its rest position
once the brake is released. Most metering valve failures are caused by
external not internal problems. The rubber cap that keeps moisture out
eventually dry rots and/or the cap screw corrodes. Either one of these
will allow moisture to enter around the stem. The area between the
stem and cap screw corrodes, which eventually bonds the two together
(see Figure 18).

The metering valve can fail in one of
two common positions. It can fail where it is stuck in an open
position. This would be the same as not having a metering valve on the
vehicle. The vehicle may experience a nose dive condition, and if the
valve has been stuck open long enough there may be some premature
front pad wear.
The metering valve can also stick in a
position where it cannot open all of the way. This would be similar to
having a faucet between the front brakes and the master that is only
part way open. This usually causes a lack of stopping power because
the front brakes are not working at 100 percent. If the metering valve
stem fails to move when the brake is applied and released it needs to
be replaced regardless of the vehicle's symptoms.
The metering valves with the highest
failure rate are those that are mounted low on the vehicle. These
valves are exposed to the elements just like the low mounted
proportioning valves. The failure rate for these valves is much higher
than what people think. In the snow belt areas it can be as high as 20
to 30 percent.
Pressure Differential
Switch
All modern vehicles are equipped
with a red brake warning light. One of the purposes of this light is
to inform the driver of either a fluid loss or pressure loss
condition. Fluid level switches are used for fluid loss and pressure
differential switches are used for sensing pressure. Pressure
differential switches use a piston that is exposed to both the primary
and secondary hydraulic circuits as in Figure 19.

The pressure differential switch
consists of the piston, electrical contact switch, wiring and warning
light.
If the vehicle experiences a hydraulic
leak or failure of either the primary or secondary half of the master
cylinder, a difference in circuit pressure will be created. The
pressure from the functioning portion of the hydraulic system will
force the pressure differential piston toward the side with the
pressure loss. The movement of the piston will cause the electrical
contact switch to go from open to closed as in Figure 20.
This will complete the ground circuit
to the red warning light and will illuminate it.
The pressure differential switch
piston never moves until a pressure difference occurs. The bore in
which it travels becomes corroded and tarnished over time. When the
piston does move, it does not always want to return after the
necessary repairs are made. The most effective method to re-center the
piston is to repair the failure, bleed the system and then create a
pressure loss opposite what moved the piston in the first place. If
the original failure was a broken rear brake line, fix the line and
bleed the rear brakes. Next open a front bleeder and spike the brake
pedal a couple of times taking care not to exceed half pedal travel.
Tapping on the side of the valve with a rubber or brass hammer can
also aid in the process. If after using this method the piston still
won't re-center, then the combination valve should be changed.
Special Purpose
Pressure Differential Switch
There are a number of pressure
differential switches that perform a second function. In addition to
completing the ground to the red warning light, they also shut off the
fluid flow to the rear brakes if a rear hydraulic failure has
occurred. The fluid flow to the rear brakes is through the ports in
Figure 21.

If a rear pressure loss occurs then
the pressure differential piston moves toward the rear brake circuit
and closes off the fluid passages to the rear brakes as in Figure
22.
When dealing with this type of valve you must re-center the valve
before the rear brakes can be bled. Bleed the lines at the master
cylinder and the fitting on the valve. Open a front bleeder and spike
the brake pedal a couple of times taking care not to exceed half pedal
travel. This usually will re-center the piston. If it won't re-center,
the combination valve will have to be replaced.
In closing, there are many variations
of brake valving in use on today's vehicles. These valves do not last
forever and need to be taken into account during both the inspection
and diagnosis stages of brake service. Having a clear understanding of
which valves perform which functions will aid you in determining when
they should be on your list of components to check during the
diagnosis. Once you start checking them, especially the high failure
rate type, you will find that many are in need of replacement and if
not serviced will affect proper system operation.
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Brakes
- Brakes
system
- Brake
inboard - Brake
fluid - Brake
cylinder - Brake
cylinder 2pistons - Brake
left foot - Brake
pad - Brake
pedal - Brake
pedal structure 4vehicle - Brake
pedal structure - Brake
piston - Brake
plate - Brake
rotor - Brakes
adjuster - Brakes
disc - Brakes
drum - Brakes
emergency - Brakes
friction - Brakes
hand brake - Brakes
leverage hydraulics - Brakes
power - Brakes
self adjusting - Brakes
service - Brakes
valves - Brake
trail braking - Brake
vented
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